Walker-Turner Table Saw Elevation Screw Installation

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In this blog, I will be demonstrating the installation on a Walker-Turner 1165 table saw. I can verify that the same process holds true for a Walker-Turner 1180 table saw, but no other saws, though it’s likely they’ll be similar in many cases.

First, for those not familiar, this is a Walker-Turner 1165 table saw. I’m working on its restoration. Circled in red below is the elevation screw (and handle) that I’m referring to in this blog. It raises and lowers the assembly under the table to adjust the depth of cut.


I’m installing this “on the bench” because I’m not far enough in my restoration to be reassembling this part yet. Please excuse the dirty parts as a result; I’m working on it. 🙂

First thing is to partially install the elevation screw shaft in to the casting. The groove should be left just outside the casting.


There is a brass partial circle piece that will get inserted next. For the two 1165 and one 1180b saws that I’ve disassembled, the brass piece was oriented as below. The brass piece keeps the shaft locked in place when raising and lowering the blade.

The hole in the brass piece is drilled towards one end, and that is the “top”. The rest of the brass piece is situated more underneath the elevation screw when the casting is upright.


A small dab of grease behind the brass will help stick it in place if keeping it oriented correctly is an issue. I have had pretty good luck with mine, but a little grease isn’t a bad idea regardless. I find having the casting vertical makes keeping the brass orientation correct a little easier.


Try not to rotate the shaft when pushing it in if you can avoid it. This will help keep the brass piece lined up. The goal is to at least see some of the hole in the brass through the setscrew hole. If you can’t see the hole, at least hope you see some of the brass. If you don’t, it’s best to pull it out and try again.


I use a small pick tool, but a small hex key or screw driver works all the same. Spin the brass piece so that the hole is lined up in the center of the screw hole.


You may have to push or pull the elevation screw in or out to get it to line up. It doesn’t have to be perfect, but it has to be pretty close. The dog point on the set screw needs to engage in it. When you look in to the set screw hole, this is the ideal alignment for the brass piece.


Install the dog point set screw. What I usually do is tighten it down all the way (tight), then back it off half a turn. Next, pull on the elevation screw to see if you can remove it. If not, then you know your dog point is in the hole of the brass piece. This is what you want.

If the brass piece wasn’t lined up correctly, then you probably just tightened on to the brass itself. The half turn backwards allows it to be removed if this is the case, which is incorrect.


Once verified that the dog point is holding the brass piece correctly, tighten it all the way again. Then loosen the set screw slowly, while also spinning the elevation shaft. The goal is to loosen it only to the point where the elevation shaft rotates smoothly. Then install the jam nut on the set screw and tighten it down.


That’s it! That should be your elevation screw installed and ready to go.

Thanks for checking it out!

Series Navigation<< Walker Turner 1165 Table Saw Restoration – Part 4
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